Following will be an overview of the hardwood
floor sanding process.
This will cover:
There are several videotapes and books available to the consumer on how to sand hardwood floors. We at Essex Silver-Line believe that if you follow some simple procedures, take your time and use the proper equipment you will sand a floor that you will be proud to show off.
Job Preparation is the first step
in your floor sanding job. It doesn't take a lot of time but it is very important. Line up
people to help you with the project. Remember, you will have to move furniture, possibly
remove old carpets, etc. and the sanding process is easier with two people.
Get out your phone book and locate the local rental
dealers. Call the stores and locate the Silver-Line SL-8 floor sander and SL-7
floor edger. If a store does not rent Silver-Line Sanders, (ask for them by
name), call another store until you find the Silver-Line brand. If you want your job to
come out looking professional and be something you're proud of, use only Silver-Line
sanders.
When you are speaking with the rental store, ask
for the cost to rent and also the cost of sandpaper. Most stores will take a deposit on
the sander, edger and sandpaper and then charge the customer for the sandpaper that they
actually use while sanding. Check with the store on the cost of sandpaper, per sheet, per
disc and per grit.
Speak with the rental store about floor finishes.
Make it easier on yourself by doing one stop shopping. If the rental store carries a top
quality finish buy it there instead of driving to another store for finish. If they sell
polyurethane you can buy the product when you return the machines. There are a lot of
manufacturers of finishes on the market, some are made specifically for hardwood floors,
some are not. Picking the proper finish will be addressed later on.
Once you find the Silver-Line equipment, reserve
the machines. If you can go into the store, check out the condition of the units. Some
stores have multiple units and you may be able to choose the machines you want to rent.
Check the drum, wheels and general look of the sander. On the edger, check out the disc
pad, and casters. On both machines look at the condition of the dustbags. If the machines
don't look up to snuff, tell the person at the store. If the equipment is not maintained
properly, it will not function properly.
When you speak with the rental store ask the person
if the "How to Finish Wood Floors" video by Fabulon® Products and Essex
Silver-Line Corp. is available to watch before you rent the machines. If you can watch the
video then take the time to watch it, it is well worth the time. If the store rents
Silver-Line machines, then the video should be in their store. There are other videos
we've seen in stores, but this video reviews the whole process of floor sanding.
The following is a list of items that you may need to complete your floor sanding project.
Tools needed:
Make sure these items are readily available to you before you start your project.
After you have prepared yourself for the
project, picked a time to do the work and reserved the machines it is time to prepare the
room for the job. To save money and time, complete all the room preparations before you
pick up the rental equipment, make a list of the tools and supplies that you will need and
check it off before you start the project.
The people that are going to do the work should
wear comfortable clothing and non-marking shoes. Avoid black soles! You may want to wear a
headband, but above all be comfortable!
Remove all obstructions from the area to be sanded. This includes, but is not limited to:
furniture, drapes, pictures, wall hangings, breakables, etc. Heating grates can be
removed, or you can leave them in place until you are sanding near them.
If you are sanding a room that had been covered by wall to wall carpet, it is time to remove the carpet. This job takes some time so be sure you allocate enough time and energy to tackle this. Pull up the carpet pad and tackstrip and remove them from the area.
Note: Be careful with the tackstrip.
Next, get on your hands and knees to inspect the
floor for:
Remove the staples and tackstrip nails. The floor
nails should be set and countersunk below the surface of the wood. At this time you could
also nail down squeaky floor boards, try to hit a joist if possible.
Next you will want to protect the areas that are
not being sanded from sawdust. Sawdust is like water, it will always find its own level.
The more you do to prevent the spread of sawdust, the less sawdust there will be to clean
up. But, be aware that no matter how much you do, you'll always find some sawdust at the
end of the project. Tape off doors, cabinets, etc. with plastic, or use old damp sheets
(dust will stick to these) close adjoining doors, open windows, etc. If your house has
forced air heating system, plug the vents in the work area to prevent circulation of the
dust.
After these steps have been completed, sweep the
floor and vacuum the whole room. When your room prep is all done, go out and pick up the Silver-Line
SL-8 floor sander, SL-7 floor edger, all abrasives and the video. If you have not
done so watch the video!
When you return home from the rental store with
the equipment, take a moment to make a final inspection for nails, tacks, etc. and remove
any items from the area. Sweep the floor one last time and then get ready to sand!
Before you start to sand your hardwood floors, it
might be a good idea to know just what you want to accomplish. Sanding is a process in
which you cut your floors with different abrasives to remove old finish, level the floor
and smooth out the wood to accept the new finish! The heavier grits make deeper cuts into
your floors and the successive lighter grits remove the earlier scratch marks to make the
hardwood floor ready to be finished with your choice of coatings.
Sanding jobs can be completed in either 3 or 4 cuts
with the different abrasive grits. It depends on the condition of the floor being
refinished. New floors will not need as aggressive cuttings as a floor being sanded and
refinished.
For reference (Sand & Refinish old floors):
The first cut is to remove the old finish and
level the floor so it is flat across the room, remove high and low spots. This will be the
heaviest sanding and will make heavy scratch marks. Most of the time sanding a room can be
completed with all grits with the grain of the wood. Most finishes can be removed
with the proper grit of sandpaper. Sanding your floor at a 45 degree angle to the grain
should be a LAST RESORT!!!
The second cut is made to eliminate the roughness
from the first cut, smooth out the scratch marks and to remove any finish that may not
have been removed on the first cut.
The final cut is done to obtain a smooth finish
when the coating is applied. It also removes more of the remaining marks from the previous
sandings.
For reference (Sand new floors):
The first cut is to level the floor. Although it
is a new installation there will still be unevenness. The wood mills cannot make each
piece of wood the same thickness, there are some variations. Of course, the leveling
process for a new floor is not nearly as aggressive as for an old floor. The sandpaper
grit used will be higher, so the marks to be removed will not be as deep. You finish the
sanding process in the same manner as with a refinish project.
Start your sanding using the lightest grit possible
to achieve the objective of the first cut, if a 36 grit will do the job then stay with it.
If you find the finish is not coming off, then go down to a 20 grit sheet. 20 grit sheets
will make heavier scratch marks and you'll have to do more sanding to get your desired
finish. We recommend a sanding process that includes: 20, 36, 60 and 100 grits.
Now that you know what you want to accomplish,
start the sanding. At the rental store pay attention to the person helping you. He or she
should show you the proper method for paper installation for the sander and edger. The
most common problem that renters encounter is incorrect installation of paper on the
sander drum.
Take the SL-8 floor sander to the room to be
sanded. Sanding will be done from the right to the left. Locate an outlet in the room that
will allow the cord to be behind you as you sand. Before you put on any sandpaper or plug
the machine into the wall you may want to practice the movement of sanding. Practice
lowering the drum to the floor while you are moving forward and also feathering the drum
off the floor as you approach the wall. Do the same practice motion as you would make the
return cut.
Note: Some sanders will sand with the edger first and then follow with the sander. The reason they do this is so the edger casters are not rolling across the floor where the sander has already finished its cut. They believe that the caster marks will show in the finished floor, especially with a soft wood.Many floor refinishers use the sander first and follow with the edger. The reason behind this was to sand the field of the room to the desired level and then bring the edges to that same level. The caster marks, if any would be removed with the screening process.
Finally, it comes down to you. This page is going to follow the sander then edger method.
Tilt the SL-8 back so you can install the paper
(Remember, you only need to turn the cams 1/4 turn in the correct direction to install the
paper). Once the paper is installed on the drum, tie the dustbag on the dust tube elbow
securely. The SL-8 sander is designed so the drum does not touch the floor until the user
wants it to make contact. Look at the machine, it should be resting on the back of the
chassis. Plug in the sander to your outlet. The SL-8 runs on 14 amps, but we suggest you
try to find a circuit that is not overloaded. When you are ready to turn on the machine,
put the cord over your shoulder, it will help keep it out of your way as you do your
return sanding. Put on your earplugs and dustmask, you are going to
sand the floor!
Note: Always unplug any sanding equipment before you change abrasives. Then remember to plug them back in after the new abrasive is installed.
Note: If you trip a breaker or blow a fuse, turn the equipment off. Then reset the breaker or replace the fuse.
Note: Remove all sawdust from the house as you empty the dustbags. Empty you sander bags when they are 1/2 full. It will help the dust pick up. Sawdust can be flammable and you do not want it in your house.
When you sand a room with the floor sander you
will do it in two sections. Start the sanding with 2/3's of the room in front of you with
the grain of the wood. Sand this section of the room from right to left, overlapping the
previously cut path. Then turn around and sand the remaining 1/3 overlapping the
two sections. Stagger the place where you lift the drum off the floor to avoid stop marks
where the two sections of the room meet.
Sand both forward and backward in the same path
with the Silver-Line floor sander, just like a professional floor sander. As you begin to
move in either direction, slowly lower the drum to the floor, be moving before you
lower the drum. A smooth feathering action with the drum and constant movement when
the drum is in contact with the floor will eliminate gouge marks. The backwards cut will
be your most aggressive and also the best for dust pick up. Never stop moving the sander
once it is in contact with the floor. Pay attention to your position in relation to the
wall you are sanding towards. Don't get to close to the wall in front of you before you
lift the drum, you may not get the drum off the floor completely. Don't walk into the wall
behind you as you make your return cut, it will cause you to stop the drum in contact with
the floor.
If the cutting action of your sander seems to slow or diminish, it is probably time to change the sandpaper. In an effort to save money, don't try to extend the life of the paper, replace it as needed. If you hit a nail but the paper does not break, beware, there will be heavier wear in the paper at the point where the nail hit. If you do not replace the paper, there will be a mark in your floor because the grit on the sandpaper was worn away.
Note: If you skimp on the amount of paper you use on this project it will effect the end result. Don't look at the cost at the time of sanding, but rather over the life of the floor. A $3.00 dollar sheet of paper over a 10 year period is 30 cents a year. Replace abrasives to get the same type of cut across the floor.
After you sand the field of the room with the
floor sander it is time to sand the edges with the floor edger. Unplug the SL-8 floor
sander and move it out of yur way, unless someone else is running it. Put the bag on the
edger, lay the edger on it's side and install the paper. Check to make sure the edger
on/off switch is OFF, and then plug the unit into the power.
Pick the edger up and rest it on the casters only,
tilted back off the disc pad. Turn on the edger and lower the pad to the floor. Moving
from left to right, level the floor from the area the floor sander has already sanded
towards the wall or baseboard. Move the edger in 12 to 18 inch sections and then move
over, always keep the edger moving, work in a semi-circular motion. When you sand along a
wall that the wood runs perpendicular to, rotate the edger to the right on each board so
you avoid sanding against the grain.
Another method of edging is to sand from the wall or baseboard to the area that has already been cut by the sander. In this method you cut a line along the baseboard, and then sand out to the drum area in 12 to 18" sections. In either method, move left to right.
Let the edger do the work, don't put extra
pressure on the machine. Work at a pace that you're comfortable with, and take frequent
rests. If two people are working together, the person running the edger is responsible to
the person running the sander in regards to the cords. Keep an eye on both sets of cords
so none get run over.
Sand the room with both the sander and the edger
with all the required grits. Don't try to skip grits to save time and money. Remember
that the process requires removal of previous scratch marks with successive cuts.
When the sanding is completed with the SL-8 and
SL-7 it is time to do areas not reached by this equipment. If you have baseboard heating,
radiators or toekicks in the room or rooms that you are sanding then you will need to sand
under these obstructions. Use the Silver-Line U2 underadiator sander in
these applications. It uses a 5" pressure sensitive disc (PSA) and will fit under
these items because of its elongated nose. Sand right to left with this unit and repeat
all the grits that were required with the other sanders. There is no dust retrieval system
so make sure you are wearing a dustmask.
When you're done with the electric floor sanding
equipment, it is time to scrape the corners and crevices of the room. The rental store may
rent or sell a good scrapper. Get on your hand and knees and scrape all the corners. Keep
the blade sharp as you scrape, especially when you must sand against the grain of the
wood. Don't forget to look for any areas that the edger could not sand, around door casing
and thresholds etc. Hand sand the areas after you scrape them.
After you have sanded the floors and scraped the
corners, look at the floor one more time and check for errors. If you see drum marks,
gouges or spots with old finish, scrape these areas. After you scrape, hand sand these
areas.
When you're done with the sanding process, return
the sanders. Rental stores will charge for time out, not time used. When you return
sanders, remember to bring back:
ALL CORDS, WRENCHES, BAGS AND UNUSED SUPPLIES.
After the sanding is completed you should screen
the floor before you apply any coating or stain to achieve the best possible finish. A
professional floor sander will screen all his work. Spend the time and money to screen the
floor.
Why? You identify any mistakes in the floor before
you put finish on the wood. This process also blends the areas that were sanded by the
sander and the edger to attain a uniform look. The floor will end up with a better sheen
and a finer appearance if you screen.
How do I Screen?: Using a polisher, either rotary
or orbital, a nylon pad and a screen mesh disc you will screen the floor. A screen is an
abrasive product that looks like the screen you would see on your door or window. They
come in various sizes, grits and shapes. You will be using a round screen with a rotary
polisher and a rectangular screen with an orbital polisher, the rental store will be able
to give you the proper screen.
Note: When you first use a rotary polisher, start the machine in the middle of the room. Get familiar with the machine you will be operating. Adjust the handle on the polisher to about waist height, be comfortable with the machine. Work with the polisher 5 to 10 minutes before you give up on screening. Remember, the polisher will stop running when you let go of the trigger. A rotary polisher runs clockwise. If you push the handle down the machine will move to the left, and if you pull the handle up, the machine moves to the right. Don't try to muscle the machine, you will not win.
To screen a floor you run the polisher along the
edges of the room first and then you screen the field of the floor with the grain of the
wood. As you screen, look for edger marks, drum stop marks, or other imperfections. If you
see imperfections, work with the polisher and screen until the mark is out of the floor.
Move side to side with the polisher by shifting your feet, not by twisting your body.
Floor sanding screens come in grits ranging from 60
to 180. Most rental stores will carry 60, 80, and 100 grit. 120, 150 and 180 grit screens
are available for finer finishes. If you are using a oil modified coating, you can screen
to 100 grit. When you are using a water based finish, screen with at least 120 grit, to
close up the pores in the wood so you do not get a lot of grain raise.
After you finish the screening, return the polisher
to the rental store, unless you want to keep it until your finish dries for screening
between coats. It may save you money to return the polisher at this point and reserve it
for when you need it for the finishing process. Do not throw out your used screens, as you
may want to use them as abrasives for the inter-coat screening.
Proper Finishes and Application:
Before you begin coating a floor with any finish
or stain, you must thoroughly vacuum the room. This means the floors, walls, woodwork,
light switches, etc. Any surface can catch dust... let the dust settle and then vacuum.
After vacuuming you will tack the floor to remove
any dust that was left by the vacuum. You will want to use a tacking agent that is made
with the solvent used in the finish. If you are using a water based finish, use water on a
diaper, make the diaper damp, not wet. For an oil modified stain or polyurethane use a
premade tackcloth or a rag damp with paint thinner or mineral spirits.
Staining:
Staining a floor adds color and brings out a
different look and texture to the hardwood floor. There are many different colors of
stains and choosing one can be tricky. Color charts are helpful, but actual samples on
your wood gives a better indication of the final finish.
Follow the instructions of the manufacturer when
applying stain. Take your time, do not get ahead of yourself when in the staining process.
Screening the floor is critical if you plan to apply a stain to the wood. Stain will
highlight any imperfections from the sanding. After application, let the stain dry. It
will flash off quickly, but will not totally dry for 24-36 hours.
Floor Finishes:
If you are not staining your hardwood floor, or if
the stain has dried completely, it is now time to apply your floor finish. There are
several types of hardwood floor coatings; waxes, lacquer sealers, Swedish finishes, oil
modified and water-based polyurethanes. We at Essex Silver-Line have had the opportunity
and resources to try and experiment with many different types of finishes. For the DYI
floor refinisher there are only a couple of choices to consider, either oil modified or
water based polyurethane. These two urethane finishes, have distinct advantages to
the user and the final choice will be based on personal preferences.
The following is a list of the difference between
the oil modified and water based finishes:
Oil Modified Poly:
Review this information and then decide which
type of polyurethane you wish to apply. Once you know which type to use, be aware of the
difference between the many urethanes on the market. First and foremost, select a top
quality floor finish. Think of the cost of the good finish extended over the life of the
floor, not just at the time of purchase. The money spent now will more than pay for itself
over the next 10 to 15 years, when properly maintained.
Note: If you pay sixty to ninety dollars for finish it works out to six to nine dollars per year for ten years of use.
There are very definite differences between
cheaper polyurethane's and the more expensive products. The old saying "You get what
you pay for" is very much evident when you see how easily the polyurethanes are
applied and how long they last on your floor. Fabulon® products are your
best bet. They are designed for wood floors and are formulated with only the highest
quality polyurethane resins. Other products may state that they have a high solids
content, but they include fillers and other non-polyurethane resin items. The key is Polyurethane
resins, and Fabulon® has an exceptionally high polyurethane resin
content. Apply this with confidence.
When you are going to apply the finish, the first
step is proper stirring. Do not shake the finish in the cans. This will cause problems
with bubbles in your finish. Stir your finish very well, and continually stir the urethane
as you use it to keep the body of the finish mixed.
Note: Remember to plan you coating process so that you can leave the room by a door.
After the finish is prepared, cut in the edges with
the 4" brush. Cut in only the area that you can keep up with while applying the
finish with the applicator. Don't get ahead of yourself. The strip you cut in should be 4
to 6 inches wide, make sure you apply enough finish to cover the area completely.
Depending on the type of finish, there are certain
types of finish applicators. When applying water-based finishes you will use either a pad
or T-bar type applicator. Lambswool applicators are used with oil modified finishes.
Because of the different bases of these two popular
finishes, there are different practices for applying them. The following is an overview of
the two distinct applications.
Oil Modified:
Apply with the grain of the wood. Pour a line of
urethane across the grain of the wood, or dip the applicator in the finish and draw out
the urethane in a line. Using a lambswool applicator, spread the polyurethane following
the grain of the wood. You can push and pull the finish, as long as you make the last pass
over each area in the same direction. Apply an even, thin coat without puddles or drops.
After a pass with the applicator, excess finish can be removed by rolling the applicator
in the next area to be coated. A top quality finish will be self leveling and easy to
apply. Avoid the bubbles that can result from "working the finish" too much.
You should check the area that has just been
finished for puddles, missed areas, etc. before you begin the next area. Once you are
satisfied that the area is complete, cut in the next area and apply the finish. Make sure
to overlap the areas completed and keep the last applicator movements in the same
direction.
Note: Keeping the last strokes with your applicators in the same direction is even more important when you apply a satin finish. The dulling agents in this finish must be applied in the same direction to keep the sheen the same throughout your project.
Water based:
With a water based finish you
pull the applicator when applying the finish. Pour a line of finish on the floor,
following the grain. Then pull the applicator like a squeegee plowing the finish to the
end of the room. The applicator should be positioned with a slight angle so the urethane
flows into the next area to be coated, and not back into the area just completed. This can
be tricky, Fabulon® Products has made a video on the
application of water borne finishes, watch it. If you don't want to use the "T"
bar applicator then a 9" pad painter can be used.
Unlike the "T" bar, you apply the finish
in a fashion like the 10" lambswool applicator. Cut in your edges and apply the
finish with the applicator. Remember to overlap the finish and to be careful of missing
spots. Water based finishes are designed to be used in many thin coats. The advantage
of the drying time will be effected if you apply it too heavily.
Note: Many professional floor refinishers will apply a coat of Super Gloss finish as their first layer, no matter what the final desired finish. This is believed to be the best base coat, and it is true that the final coat will determine the final sheen. A coat of satin over two coats of Super Gloss will dull the sheen to a satin finish.
Note: Most manufacturers do not recommend thinning out their products for the first coat, they do manufacture some type of sealer.
Note: With either type of finish, Do Not Stop the applicator in the finish as you apply it. Feather the applicator in and out of the urethane.
Once the whole area is coated, you must close it
off until the finish dries. Be sure to keep animals off the floor as it dries. Close the
doors, put up "Keep Off" signs, etc. Let the urethane dry thoroughly before you
attempt to recoat the room. A water based finish should dry in 2 to 4 hours, and the oil
modified finishes can dry in 4 to 8 hours, the more fillers, etc. will effect the dry
time, making it longer. Read the can for dry times.
After the first coat dries you must prepare for the
next coat. If you are using a water based urethane, you just recoat the floor. Unlike the
previous coat, on bare wood it will be harder to see areas that need their second coat.
Use the wood as a guide and take your time. Some refinishers will put pieces of masking
tape along the baseboard to keep track of where they are on the floor.
If you are using the oil modified finish then there
is another step to complete before you apply any more finish. You must screen the floor.
This time the process will remove any grain raise resulting from the application of
finish.
When you screen the finish it should powder up. If
you do not get a powder, then the finish is not sufficiently dry. Stop and wait for the
finish to dry. You will screen your floor with a buffer like before, but at a much faster
rate. Again screen with the grain of the room, outside edge first and then the body. For
screening between coats you can use a new 150 or 180 grit screen or a used screen you
saved from the original screening. Be careful not to remove the finish you just applied.
Note: If you do not want to rent the buffer at this point, you can use a pole sander with the proper grits of sandscreens to achieve the same result. The rental store should have the proper screens and may rent a pole sander.
After you screen your finish, you must vacuum and tack rag the whole room. When this is completed you will apply your next coat of finish in the same manner as the previous coat. You will screen the floor between all the coats when applying oil modified finish. When you apply the water borne finish you will not screen after the first coat, as with oil modified finish, but you will screen between the following coats. Repeat this process until you have applied the recommended number of coats for the finish.
Note: Always follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer of the product.
When you are done with applying the
finish, it is time to let the urethane dry or cure. In 2 to 3 days most urethanes should
be dry enough to place the furniture back into the room. It is
recommended to purchase furniture pads and use them on the legs of any and all furniture.
You must wait at least 10 to 14 full days before you place any area rugs on the floor. The
urethane will fully cure in 14 to 21 days.
Now that you have sanded and refinished your floor you should now think about the proper maintenance of it. The following will be some do's and don'ts to keep you floor looking great!
Do not wax a urethaned floor. They will be less slippery and you will not have a problem in the future if you want to recoat the floors in years to come.
Do be careful where you use furniture wax, overspray can lead to problems with recoating the floor.
Do use cleaners recommended or made by the urethane manufacturer
Do clean the floors regularly, using a vacuum or dust mop to remove heavy grit
Do clean dirtier floors with clear water on a damp mop, but remember, water is the enemy of wood and do not get you floor too wet.
Do place rugs at entrances to avoid dragging in excessive grit
Do recoat the floor periodically, when it begins to show signs of wear. If the finish wears off the floor completely you may have to sand and refinish the floor again, due to staining in the bare spots.
Last update 06/10/05
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Safety Warning: This web page contains general and basic safety information; it is not intended to replace the instructions of precautions of manufacturers, equipment and material vendors, or OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration). While safety tips are included, it is not possible to provide precautions for all possible hazards, due in part to variations in machinery design, jobsite conditions, and operator abilities. Standard and accepted safety precautions should be followed at all times.
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